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Introduction
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Despite its huge historical importance and cosmopolitan cultural
diversity, Cape Town wears its international city tag like a schoolboy in
a blazer bought with 'growing room'. The aptly named City Bowl, between
Table Bay and the imposing, 1,000-metre-high slab of Table Mountain, is
compact, but the Mother City somehow manages to squeeze entire cultures
and communities into a small surface area.
The Bo-Kaap ('Upper Cape') - or the Malay Quarter - is a case in point.
Populated by descendants of the city's 17th- and 18th-century Muslim
slaves, this cobblestoned neighbourhood has a quaint vibe and small-town
charm - despite being smack-bang in the City Centre. Pop into the Bo-Kaap
Museum (71 Wale Street, +27214813939,
) for a glimpse into this uniquely Capetonian community.
This
diversity spreads throughout the city. Standing in the green forests on
the slopes of Table Mountain, it's hard to believe you're only a few miles
from the heart of the city. And as you stroll down St George's Mall,
dodging a briefcase-wielding businessman while surrounded by the sounds of
marimba drums, gum-boot dancers and the occasional manic street preacher,
you won't know whether Cape Town is a place at work or at play.
The city boasts the unfairly abundant natural beauty of a provincial
town, combined with the smooth sophistication of a First World metropolis.
The award-winning Camps Bay and Clifton beaches, the gorgeous Kirstenbosch
Botanical Gardens (Rhodes Drive, +27217998800,
) and the famous Winelands are all situated within an hour of the City
Centre - the heart of the City Bowl - and the busy dockyards, where local
fishermen bring home their catch of the day, occasionally hamming it up to
the gawking tourists at the V&A Waterfront (Dock Road, Foreshore, +2721408
7600,
).
Cape Town is a world crammed into City Bowl. It's an African city (step
inside the Pan-African Market (76 Long Street, +27214242957), it's a
European city (the cafe terraces on St George's Mall wouldn't be out of
place in Brussels or Barcelona) and it's a South African city (laugh with
the locals aboard a minibus taxi).
You can't help but notice South Africa's most recognisable landmark, and
you can't really call yourself a traveller until you've been to the top.
While a broad network of hiking trails leads to the summit, the Table
Mountain Aerial Cableway (lower cable station, Tafelberg Road,
) operates most days - except when the 'Tablecloth' of cloud smothers
the mountain - and is well worth the trip.
As you explore the City Bowl you'll find that one landmark is located only
a few doors down from another. This is especially true on Long Street and
Museum Mile, the city's most rewarding stroll.
Starting at the mountain
end of the lush Company Gardens (Upper Adderley Street), you'll pass the
following in the space of about a kilometre: the South African Museum (25
Queen Victoria Street, +27214813800,
) with its fascinating dioramas; the neighbouring Planetarium (25
Queen Victoria Street, +27214813900,
) with its imposing dome; the South African National Gallery
(Government Avenue, Company Gardens, +2721 4674660,
) with its bold and eclectic collection of works; the Houses of
Parliament (Parliament Street, +27214033683,
), which offer day tours and glimpses of the nation's leaders; St
George's Cathedral (1 Wale Street,
) with its fascinating architecture and peaceful atmosphere; and the
Cultural History Museum and Slave Lodge (corner of Wale and Adderley
Streets, +27214608240,
) with its own collection of historical artefacts.
The Waterfront and Robben Island
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A single trip to the V&A Waterfront - with its shopping mall, restaurants,
hotels marina and fascinating Two Oceans Aquarium (Dock Road, V&A
Waterfront, +27214813823,
) - is enough to explain how Cape Town earned its reputation as 'The
Tavern of the Seas'.
The Waterfront is the departure point for one of
Cape Town's must-do activities: a pilgrimage via ferry to the former
maximum-security prison on Robben Island and the former jail cell of
anti-apartheid icon and former president Nelson Mandela (+27214095100,
). Ferries depart throughout the day from the Nelson Mandela Gateway
at the V&A Waterfront's Clock Tower.